Our Travels In Japan (and other places): The Shimanamikaido

Five years ago, we rode the Shimanamikaido from Onomichi (on the main island of Honshu) to Imabari as the first day of our trip to Shikoku with our trailers in tow. Today we planned on riding it in the opposite direction with just some backpacks. As I've mentioned previously, the Shimanamikaido is a series of bridges connecting some the islands between Shikoku and Honshu. At both ends there are terminals where you may rent bikes to cross one way, dropping them off at the other end. I recommend a better bike than that, if you are interested in seeing all 70km of the trail.

Getting up early to avoid traffic, we were on the road at 6, weaving our way north through Imabari to the trailhead. I was surprised at how little I remembered of this portion of the trip, but I suppose it being only our second cycling trip, being very jet lagged, and in Imabari at the end of a long ride, it would make sense that I wouldn't remember details. Well, we made the 6 mile trip to the trailhead in about 45 minutes, which isn't bad, considering all the stoplights and numerous map checks.

And we're off! 69.5 km to go!

Reaching the start, we stopped to get everything in order, put on sunscreen, check the batteries on the phone and GoPro, and we're off! The first bridge connects the island of Ooshima to Shikoku, and the waters below the bridge have several different currents converging in the same place, creating some very interesting tides, including a number of small eddies (whirlpools). It was fascinating to watch. And the view wasn't too shabby, either.

Early morning view

The cycling portion of the bridges are usually shared with pedestrians and scooters under 125cc. This morning, we were practically the only ones out at the first bridge, but that changed quickly. When we arrived at Ooshima, we were surprised at the number of scooters on what we thought was a bicycle path. Turns out, it WAS a bicycling path. There was a pack of ne'er-do-wells hoping to sneak by early to avoiding paying the ¥500 toll at the end of the bridge. How often did they do well? Ne'er.

I won't bore you with trying to describe the amazing scenery on this trip. We could have taken hundreds of pictures. Every turn yielded a different view. It's really a pretty spectacular ride, especially in good weather, and today was gorgeous. Clear, 78 degrees, no wind. A perfect day for cycling.

About halfway into the trip, in Omishima, we decided to stop for a snack at the local 7-11. In many of the rural areas of Japan, most of the konbinis have a small seating area for customers to relax and eat/drink whatever they purchased, which we take regular advantage of. This particular 7-11 had USB and electrical charging available to customers. Nice!

One of the best trail foods I've found is gorotto. It's jello, but without all the fake and sugary sweeteners added. Instead, they put fruit in a cup, pour the gelatin around it, sweeten it with the fruit's juices and let it set. It's sweet, filling, quenches your thirst a little, and mostly good for you!

Gorotto Mixed Fruit

When we arrived at the next island, Ikuchijima, we were greeted with a rather strange sight.

Large stone lemons?

Ikuchijima, it turns out, is Japan's leading producer of lemons, as well as producing other citrus fruit. There were a lot of lemon-related artwork and posters throughout the island. When we passed by a roadside market advertising fresh-squeezed juice, we couldn't resist. They didn't have lemonade, but hey did have fresh-squeezed orange juice

Yeah, this'll do

Hoo boy, was it good. Especially after about 50km on the road. We forged ahead to the next island, Innoshima, and to the next bridge, which is a special one, and one we both remembered very fondly, as it was our first bridge, and a unique one, at that. The bridge between Innoshime and Mukaishima is about 2 miles long and has two levels: One for cars and one for bicycles.

Our very own bridge

We finished a bit early (about 1) and our hotel check-in time wasn't until 3pm, so we hung out at a rest stop in Mukaishima for a while, enjoying the weather and the atmosphere. The Shimanamikaido is really a must-see for anyone traveling to this area of Japan. Truly remarkable vistas, great cycling, and good food.

As it approached 3pm, we headed to the ferry terminal, and rolled on for the 2 minute crossing to Honshu (¥110 each, with the bikes). Reaching Onomichi, we checked in to our hotel and walked to a nearby MosBurger for dinner. MosBurger is like the Wendy's of Japan. The food isn't as bad as McDonalds... That's about all you can say. But we were underwhelmed by the nearby choices and too tired to head downtown and try Sumi-chans (!), an Okonomiyaki place. We probably should have tried it, but sleep beckoned. The MosBurger menu had a bunch of specials, so I tried the "Spicy Double Cheese", which turned out to be two patties, tomato, lettuce, jalapeño peppers, chili, and "sauce". Sumi opted for the standard Tobira-burger with lettuce and tomato. They were surprisingly good, and the Spicy Double came with something I think all messy-on-purpose meals like that should have: a spoon. You see, once you've eaten the burger, there's very likely a bunch of "burger stuff" still in the paper sleeve. No reason it should go to waste, amirite?